On a recent research trip, I had the opportunity to be a tourist for one full day, as well as enjoy the city each night once the conference sessions concluded.
The conference was at the gorgeous Akra Barut hotel, situated on the coast of Antalya, Turkey. For those looking for a resort feel, high-end restaurants, spa, spectacular views, etc., this is your place. They had the best lunch buffet with vegetable dishes, loads of salads, breads, fruit, fish and meat options, and desserts.
Though the Akra Barut is a gorgeous 5 star hotel, for this trip I just wanted a funky, eclectic space among the local population in the middle of the city. So, I found a space near old town off Ataturk Cd. I opted for the Oscar boutique hotel, which was billed as a great local spot for solo business travelers.
I arrived late at night by taxi, par for the course for my arrival in foreign countries, and found two cute little dogs lounging in the main space as I checked in. My room was on the second floor, had two twin memory foam beds, and was good size for a single. That night, I sank into the bed and left the world behind.
The next morning, on my one day off in Antalya it poured most of the day. From the looks of it…myself, and most of the hotel guests, opted for the breakfast buffet at the hotel. It was a typical Turkish breakfast consisting of cheese, honey, jam, olives, salami, egg, tomato and cucumber, bread, pastries, fruits, juices and coffee – plenty of vegan options. Turkish breakfasts are similar to European offerings. During breakfast the doggies were hanging out in the garden restaurant, also escaping the rain. At one point the dogs decided to play under my table, maybe they were hoping for food.
As the rain slowed, I finally made my way out to explore the city. I headed to the old city and walked through the Hadrian’s Gate, which I believe was built by the Roman emperor in the second century. I was told that the architecture in Kaleici (old city) dates from the Ottoman period, but the walls surrounding the old city are from the Roman period.
The narrow pathways of the old city leads to the harbor, and along the way there are plenty of restaurants, houses, shops, and boutique hotels. The harbor viewing point is situated on top of a cliff overlooking the harbor – the view is gorgeous. The hike down through the park to the harbor also offers fabulous views of the water, old harbor, and fishing boats.
That night as I walked around the more modern area of town, I heard the Islamic call to prayer coming from the local mosque. I have heard it before in other countries; in some places, it is subtle, in places such as Turkey, the call to prayer is a central part of daily life and was audible throughout the city streets. For me, there is something mesmerizing about the call to prayer and it offered authentic moments of real life in Antalya.
One of the perks of staying at the Oscar hotel was that they allowed guests to pay for a bottle of more expensive local wine (not the house special) and they kept it at the bar with a room number attached. It was definitely more economical than paying by the glass. One night while sitting in their garden restaurant reading and enjoying a glass of wine, fireworks started going off in celebration of Turkish Republic day, Oct 29. I had a good view from the hotel courtyard.
For the vegans and vegetarians heading to Antalya, it will be worth your while to do the research in advance on restaurants – or prepare to walk around a while before you find a restaurant with options. It’s a coastal town, so if seafood is your thing there will be an abundance of choices. Along with seafood, old town has pub food, a few American style restaurants with burgers, Italian restaurants and local fare. The surrounding modern local city center also has a lot of restaurants but mostly traditional local cuisine like Kebab. Don’t expect to see hummus and falafel everywhere, in that neighborhood it’s mostly found at the vegan spots.
One night while roaming around old town, I stumbled upon the charming Mediterra Art boutique Hotel. On the ground floor they had a lovely poolside restaurant, Müdavim Meze. The meze plate was my only option – it came with Hibes – a spicy dip, similar to hummus with red peppers, Pazi kavurma (greens) with warm fresh bread, and I added a local red wine — fantastic.
One of the best vegan restaurants in Antalya was the Lifeco Saf, located at the Akra Barut hotel. On one of the lower levels near the exercise facility and spa, it was a great spot to decompress and enjoy the incredible view. They served fresh juices, flavorful teas, healthy snacks and main dishes. I had the coconut curry — it was so good I wanted to drink the curry sauce.
The spot local vegans and vegetarians prefer is Rokka. There food was so good I think I ate there three times. They have an extensive menu for carnivores and plant based diets. They also have an English menu and their servers speak a little English, which was very helpful. The spinach, onion, tomato, walnut pizza was the bomb; they also made yummy fries. Then there was the traditional platter of falafel, hummus, tahini, pickles, peppers and fresh bread, which was massive and so very tasty.
For the coffee lovers – Turkey should be on your must visit list. I always bring coffee home from my travels and this time was no different. Making coffee in Turkey is an art form. It tasted good when I made it at home but there definitely is a process to making excellent Turkish coffee that I haven’t yet mastered.
Please visit my Flicker site for more Antalya pictures.